Saturday, June 28, 2014

Mile 1,068.0 - 1,083.7

This has been the scariest day of our hiking life and I'm not kidding. Early this morning while still in our sleeping bags, Balance said to me "It's raining out". That was news to me because I was wearing earplugs with the high winds were making noise. Ok, so it's raining. No big deal we thought. Believe it or not it's the first time since the Kickoff Party that it has been raining in the morning.
It rained all the time on the Appalachian Trail when we hiked that back in 2011. So it's just another day on the AT. We ate a little breakfast in our tent and began to pack up. By the time we had got to breaking down the tent we were pretty wet. We were camped halfway up a pass of about 9,000' and still in the trees. Now packed up we started up the remaining miles of the pass. We got above tree line and the winds were 40 mph plus. It was pouring rain and it felt like it was only in the upper 30's for temperature. We were freezing. That's not all. We could only see 15 to 20 feet ahead of us because of the extreme heavy cloud cover. My sun hat which this morning I used as a rain hat kept whipping into my face because of the hurricane like winds. That made it very annoying and frustrating but it did keep some of the rain off my face. To top this off we are only carrying light weight rain jackets because 'it never rains out here in California'. Now we know how wrong we were. We reached the summit of this open pass soaked to the bone and freezing cold. I found a boulder where I hid from the rain until Balance arrived. Just then another hiker whom we hadn't met yet came hiking up and looked to be in as bad of shape as I was. Balance then arrived and the three of us just stood behind this one huge rock taking refuge from the elements. We were all to cold and wet to stay long so we made a break for it down the pass in hope of some trees for shelter. Just as we moved from the boulder the winds were still there, stronger than ever. I was now shaking uncontrollably. I felt as though I was in trouble. I have never felt this before but I knew I was in trouble. I caught up with Balance and found her in the same shape I was. We needed help. This is the early stages of nemoania. Both of our hands were numb. I couldn't move my fingers in which I wanted. Believe me I tried. They just would not cooperate. Not good, not good at all. I started making weird shivering noises tromping down the pass just praying there was an answer to this and quick. At this point the other hiker has moved ahead as he tried the running method to warm up and he was gone. He had a very small ultralight pack and was able to produce something of a jog. Our packs are larger and it wouldn't work for us. Neither of us were in any shape to begin jogging down a very steep, rocky pass when we could see but a few feet in front of us. We did move fast, as fast as we could given the situation.
We made it down to tree line but in bad shape. Just then I noticed a tent and went over to it. It was "Safety Hat" a hiker we met yesterday. I told him are situation and told him to stay put and that we were not well. He told me that there is still one more exposed pass to hike coming up. Not the news I wanted to hear. I told the shivering Balance the bad news and we just looked at each other. We have to keep moving we said to each other. We're freezing cold and wet head to toe. We started up the trail and I could see the opening through the trees to the next pass. I said to Balance, "we can't go, it's not safe". "We are both in danger here and this is serious." I am nervous for our well being and safety here. Lets set up our tent here in the trees and take shelter. We talked about it from a minute as neither one of us wanted to do that, but we had to.
We found a flat ground and began setting up the tent. The problem was we couldn't use our hands. They just wouldn't work. It felt like I had lobster claws for hands. I was all thumbs. Our fingers just wouldn't work.  Now what?
Piece by piece, one by one both Balance and I worked as a team to erect our tent. A usual one man 2 minute job took us a painful and very wet 10 minutes to do. It was painful to do and even more painful to see just how bad of shape we were both in. Now everything is soaked, well not everything. We are lucky and smart enough to have our essentials in a dry bag. Our sleeping bag and our spare clothes. We hop into the wet tent. Yes even the inside of the tent is wet because in took us so long to put the fly on. But it's shelter. Shelter is the first step to our safety and now we have it. Still the both of us just can not get warm. We start taking off our wet hiking clothes and put on our only dry layers. Long johns both tops and bottoms, sleeping socks and our wool hats. Balance pulls out her sleeping bag and we both get in it. Body heat will help we figure but its just to tight for 2 people in a single sleeping bag. I then pull out my sleeping bag and we slowly begin to warm. It is just so raw and cold and windy outside that even in our dry sleeping bags with dry clothes we don't warm that much. 
The shivering begins to fade and we are at peace with our decision to seek shelter. I would hate to think what would have happen had we pushed on. We only made it 3 miles today but it was the scariest day of my life, at least my hiking life. What happens if one of our bodies shut down and couldn't operate anymore. There is no help here. I don't even have cell service here. Things could have been worse and I'm so happy we made the right decision to stop and make shelter. It just may have saved two hiker lives.
About 2 hours after being set up in our tent. We hear outside our tent "Hey Y-Knot, Hey Balance." It's our hiiking friend Sizzler. We thought he was ahead of us. But instead he had gone into the small village of Kennedy Meadows North to get more food and we did not. We couldn't believe it. He just came over that same pass as we did but was in better shape then us. He said the wind gusts were 40 mph and was also very wet. We were so happy to see him but he was pushing on 6 more miles to a road crossing where his wife and kids were meeting him. He asked if we wanted to go with him and they would give us a ride to town. It sounded awesome but we couldn't. For one, we were far from ready to hike and for two, its his family that he hasn't seen in 2 months. We didn't want to crash that party. We are now safe, dry, and fairly warm.
The biggest problem now is that between us, we have only a cup of water. So if we are held up here over night, we would go thristy quick. I want to make hot tea but am afraid of using the rest of our water. I came up with an idea that if I put my water scoop bottle under the tent fly, we could catch the rain water off our tent fly. So far after 3 hours holed up we have caught only an ounce of water. Better than nothing. This has not been our best day but I do hope it's our worst.


Balance desperately trying to get warm by burying herself in the sleeping bag. To be fair, I did the same thing. This photo was taken 3 hours after coming off the pass this morning. We are still currently holed up here as the rain and wind haven't passed. We are hoping the sun comes out and we can put on our wet clothes and hike more today. Time will tell if it safe to do so.
After 6 hours taking shelter it cleared enough for us to make an attempt of hiking more. It was a hard decision but we don't have water and our food bag is very low. We needed to make miles. The winds were still high but we were getting off and on sun which was a lot better than the freezing rain earlier. We also warmed up as we climbed the second pass of the day. We met many other hikers also holed up in their tents or packing up. They had the same idea as us. 
We ended up doing 15 miles which was really good despite the weather. Just 10 miles to Highway 50 where we will hitch into South Lake Tahoe. Resupply and rest is in order. What a day out on the PCT.


En route to our second pass of the day after the storm.


The sky is still threatening a storm.


Balance at the top of our second pass which is called Carson Pass.


So happy to see some blue in the sky.


Back in the valley and looking for a campsite. The late afternoon cleared up nicely.








Mile 1,047.7 - 1,068.0

Just a few miles into today's hike and we came across more trail magic. As we were approaching Highway 4 which is Ebbots Pass, I saw a minivan and a large tent set up by the side of the road. No it can't be, it isn't. It is! Trail Magic! All of a sudden my worries of low amounts of food went away and the biggest smile came across my face. "Chipmunk" was putting on trails magic for thru- hikers over a three day period and we just happened to catch it on the middle day. It was around 8am when we arrived so Chipmunk fried some eggs and chile. There was juice, milk, cereal, fruit, and even brownies made by his wife. It was so good Balance and I didn't want to leave.
Also there were thru-hikers 'Chette and Brunch who are cousins and just as we were leaving came Safety Hat.
Chipmonk said he has been doing this the last three years and that hikers love it. We certainly did. It was amazing. Thank you Chipmonk, you made our day. 
After prying ourselves off the chairs at trail magic with full bellies we still had a 20 mile hike to do today. So after our goodbyes we hit the trail and saw more beautiful sights. I thought the trail might get boring after the Sierras but so far it has been great. After our 20 miles today we only have a 20 mile day tomorrow and a short 5 miles the following day to get to South Lake Tahoe and a nero / rest day. We love town days. So much food to eat. We can't wait!


Our first view from the trail. We knew something was going on. Sure enough it was Trail Magic by Chipmunk.


Chipmunk's sign on the trail so hikers know he is doing trail magic. Love that.


Chipmunk and Y-Knot at the cooking table. That was an awesome breakfast Chipmunk. Thanks for all that you do. We all appreciate it so much.


A happy and full Y-Knot.


Toiyabe Wilderness Area.


Purple asters and the mountains.


The scenery is still beautiful here in this wilderness.


Y-Knot and a hillside of wild flowers.


The unknown around the next corner keeps us going. That's our trail and we had lots of corners like this today. Also, we encountered very strong winds on this mountain.












Mile 1083.7 - 1,093.0

We are so excited today. After being in the wilderness the last 8 days with super heavy packs we are about to reach Highway 50 which is our exit to South Lake Tahoe. That means a 12 mile hitch into town, rest, and of course a resupply for our next 5 day stretch to Sierra City. 
First we had to hike 9 miles which had a few bumps up and a massive downhill all the way to HWY 50. As we approached HWY 50 we noticed a large gathering with multiple tents set up. We found out that we are standing on the grounds of the 1968 Olypimic  Track & Field training grounds. They were having a huge dedication with a lot of the former athletes   speaking. Very interesting and we were told that we could attend but the lure of town outweighed the dedication. 
Also in the parking lot of the training grounds was a trail angel "Copper-tone" and he made us early morning root beer floats.
Now it's time to hitch into town. It was Smooth Operater, Balance, and me. It took about 45 minutes on a super busy highway but a nice guy stopped for us.
The 3 of us got dropped off in downtown. Balance and I had to mail home our bear canisters from the Post Office. That got 3 pounds off our backs. Smooth Operater waited for us and we all caught the town bus to The Nevada State Line, which is just a few miles from the lake. Our idea was that cheaper motels would be near the casinos . After an endless search we gave up because the motels there looked pretty grotesque. So we took the town bus back to California and settled for a hiker favorite Motel 6.
Our hiking friend Sizzler texted us and asked if we would like to go to dinner tonight with him and his visiting family from Oregon. We had a very enjoyable dinner with the Sizzlers. What a nice family. We felt like we knew them for years after all that Sizzler had talked about them. 


Balance hiking over the last climb before reaching Highway 50.


Smooth Operater and Balance hitching a ride to South Lake Tahoe from Highway 50. Very fast traffic goes through here but  we got a ride after 45 minutes.


Y-Knot feeding his hunger with a pint of ice cream.



Mile 1,023.5 - 1,047.7

We can definitely start to tell the Sierras are behind us. The tall snow covered peaks are all to the south of us. The scenery is still very impressive and best of all the mosquitoes are at bay. At least for now.
With 3 days to go before we hit another town (South Lake Tahoe), we are feeling the usual hunger pains. The fact is we are burning 6,000 calories a day while hiking 12 plus hours a day and only eating around 2,000 calories of junk. You do the math. We could constantly eat while hiking and still be hungry and calorie deficient. We both dream of town food all day and it's not just us. All hikers do the same. We all talk food and what we are going to eat when we get to town. 
We met a thru hiker named "Free Refills" who is from Germany. He was taking a break as we hiked by and he asked if we needed any snacks. He gave us 6 granola bars which will help us get to the next town. He had too many and was looking to lighten his load. We were happy to help.
Today had many ups and downs but was a far easier day than the past couple weeks.


Our trail and a snowy peak off in the distance.


No snow and no mosquitoes.


Balance hiking through Noble Canyon.


In search of a campsite. It took us awhile to find a site in this canyon due to the steep walls. We ended up dropping off trail several hundred feet just to find a flat spot for the night.






Mile 999.4 - 1,023.5


Balance has hiked 1,000 miles on the PCT since leaving the Mexican border on April 25th. 


A journey of a thousand miles begins with a single step. That is a famous quote but I forget who wrote it. We can't believe we have made it to 1,000 miles. Also we can't believe we have almost 1,700 more miles to go. We are trying not to think about that.


Balance heading towards Leavitt Lake Pass.


That faint line in the photo is our trail during this moonscape of a climb to Leavitt Lake Pass.


Rock lichen. It looks like someone spray painted these rocks.


We don't know the name of this area, but what we do know is that it is our last view of the Sierras. We have completed the Sierra portion of the PCT. What an amazing place the Sierras are. They will be missed, but the passes will not.


Balance at the top of the pass waving goodbye to the Sierras. 


More Sierra flora.




















Mile 978.2 - 999.4

Today's word of the day is: Mosquitoes! They were horrible today and safe to say for the near future as well. It is almost impossible to take a break with these nasty creatures covering your body as you stop. It is barely tolerable when in motion, but once you stop, All bets are off. The mosquitoes will win. It's a numbers thing, millions of mosquitoes and just the two of us. 
Today I was covered head to toe. The only skin I had exposed was from my knuckles to my finger nails. That's so I can pinch and kill as many needle heads as possible.
Balance on the other goes a different route and uses deet, which seem to be working. She has to apply several times a day but she can wear short sleeve shirts. We both had headnets on today.
After hiking 20 plus miles we are exhausted, but setting up the tent as fast as possible is mandatory. In a matter of seconds we each had hundreds of blood sucking mosquitoes all over us. As soon as the tent is set up, we jump in and stay in until dark. I really wish I could say that the mosquitoes were going to be all gone tomorrow, but that's not going to happen. They are here for the season and we better get used to it.
Other than the mosquitoes we did have a few big climbs today. Right off the bat this morning we had two unnamed 9,000' mountains and then late in the afternoon we climbed Dorothy Pass at 9,546'. At the top of Dorothy Pass was the boundary of existing Yosemite National Park and entering the Hoover Wilderness. We found an excellent camping spot just a mile down the summit of Dorothy Pass on Cascade Lake.


Balance was able to cross this creek with just her feet wet. Y-Knot wasn't as fortunate. I got soaked. Still not sure how she didn't get wet.


Mosquito proofed.


The mosquitoes love these wet swampy meadows. 


Dorothy Lake.


Our camping spot for tonight. Right on Cascade Lake. Beautiful spot but millions of mosquitoes.


These are the bear canisters that we have to use until South Lake Tahoe. We hope to be there by the end of this week. It is mandatory that all hikers carry these canisters from Kennedy Meadows to South Lake Tahoe. That is about 400 miles that you must carry these 3 pound bear canisters. It may not sound like much but believe me, every hiker can't wait to get to South Lake Tahoe to mail home these cans.






Mile 956.3 - 978.2

Just when we thought these passes were over we got hit with two of them today. First up was Benson and later in the day was Selvey. Neither of these passes were anything like the ones on the John Muir Trail but they were still long and steep. The elevation is the main difference as these two passes were only 10,000' and 9,000'.


Y-Knot on top of Benson Pass early this morning at 10,000'.


This is the descent of Benson Pass into a valley meadow.


Smedburg Lake.


Our latest problem: Mosquitoes! Balance wears her headnet and uses deet on her arms and legs. My approach is different as I still wear my desert attire with long sleeve shirt and pants and a big sun hat. That leaves only my face open to mosquitoes and I have not used my bug net. It may be coming soon, today the mosquitoes were really bad.


Selvey Lake sits on top of the pass at 9,000'.


Sierra flora photos.










All kinds of wild flowers are blooming here in the high Sierras this time of year.